Monday, July 31, 2017

Stonor Park and House in the Chilterns


I finally had the chance to tour the the lovely Stonor House, a grand home that has been in the Stonor family since 1150. It is set in a lovely valley in the Chiltern Hills, not far from Henley-on-Thames and Nettlebed. The grounds have a large deer park with mature beech trees, woodlands, spectacular gardens, and fabulous walking trails. My photos don't do justice to the beauty of this place - in part because it was raining the whole time, and in part because my camera broke so I had to use my iPhone. 



Stonor House is unusual for a Oxfordshire manor home in that it's uniform facade of is of Tudor brick rather than the usual golden stone of most grand homes. But, like all houses that are nearly 900 year old, it is a hodgepodge of various styles from the 12th to the 18th centuries, including an early 19th century library, 18th century gothic revival hall, as well as the remains of the 13th century aisled hall.




Since the home is still the residence of the current Stonor family, I think the 6th Baron and Baroness Camoys, only part of the house is open to the public, and no photography is allowed inside the house.  You can see some of rooms that are open to the public if you click here.    

 


The gardens behind the house are beautiful and so well maintained. They were first laid out in 1480. They evolved into a 18th century pleasure garden built into the hill.  You can walk through one of the gates into an arboretum that is filled with stunning beech trees that must be at least 500 years old.






Interspersed throughout the formal garden are lovely old fruit trees just laden with fruit. I'd love to come back in a month and help with the harvest.






From the Stonor House website: "The fortunes of the house and chapel are strongly tied to the travails of the Catholics in Britain. When Henry VIII formed the Church of England in the 1530s Catholics, including the Stonor family were forced to take a much reduced part in public life. Crippling fines were levied and many were persecuted and forced to go into hiding.

At Stonor there is a poignant reminder of these times in the roof space and priest hole where Sir Edmund Campion hid whilst printing the famous Ten Reasons’ pamphlet in the 1580s."





A bird's nest mixed in with the water lilies 





The house chapel was built in the late 13th century next to a neolithic stone circle. Thankfully, instead of tearing down the circle, they built around the henge even incorporating one of the stones as a corner stone for the 14th century catholic chapel. I did learn, though, that many of the stones have been toppled over the centuries and that the circle has been reconstructed.




Without a telephoto lens, I couldn't capture a good picture of the rather large heard of Fallow Deer on the top of this hill.  The deer seem quite tame and are very much a part of the grounds.   



The late 13th century Catholic chapel is made of flint stone, as are a number of the walls that surround the gardens. I love this unique combination of brick and flint.






Also on the grounds is a wonderfully designed play area for kids of all ages, called Wonder Woods.   

 



One of the most surprising things I discovered inside Stonor home was a hallway with the walls covered with paintings, prints and maps of Newport, Rhode Island.  It turns out that Nadine Pepys was the daughter of of the 5th Baron and Baroness Camoys and was born at Stonor House.  She was one of the founders of Operation Clapboard, a Newport-based organization that saved nearly 40 historic buildings and raised awareness of the historical and cultural value of the homes of Newport, RI. Below is Nadine's obituary. 


The Hon. Nadine Pepys, formerly of Newport, Rhode Island and Brightling, Sussex, died 26 January, 2005, after a short illness. She was born in 1917 as the Hon. Pamela Sophia Nadine Stonor, daughter of the 5th Baron Camoys (1884-1968), of Stonor Park, Oxfordshire, by his wife Mildred (d. 1961), daughter of William Watts Sherman, of New York. She married in 1941, Lieutenant-Colonel Charles Donald Leslie (Tom) Pepys b. 1909, King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry, deceased, a great-grandson of the 1st Earl of Cottenham. No children of the marriage.





The other surprise was seeing a "Slipper Bath".  I had read descriptions of these types of bathtubs but had never seen one, at least not like this one.  A slipper bath is an iconic style of bathtub that originated in the Victorian era, when bathing and cleanliness were acknowledged as easy ways to improve health and reduce disease.


The slipper baths were initially found in washhouses and bathhouses, where the working classes could finally bathe alone with either hot or cold water. 
Traditionally, the bath has one end deeper than the other, with the taps located at the shallower end to give the bather space to relax at the other. This also affords them a certain amount of privacy, which was very useful when they were found in public washhouses, and kept the water warmer for longer.



Like all the other grand houses that I have visited, Stonor House and Park are well worth a visit. The garden, park, and home are stunning - even in the rain. And the history of the place and the people who have lived in this home over the past 800 years is fascinating.   

For more information:


http://www.stonor.com/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stonor_Park

http://www.hha.org.uk/Property/887/Stonor-Park

http://www.experienceoxfordshire.org/venue/stonor-park/

http://www.britainexpress.com/counties/oxfordshire/houses/Stonor.htm


Thursday, July 20, 2017

Broughton Castle

I think it would take a lifetime to see all the great manor houses and castles that dot the countryside of the U.K. This week I discovered a jewel of a grand house, Broughton Castle, a moated and fortified manor house a few miles from Banbury in North Oxfordshire. 



"Our house was almost seven hundred years old, a medieval beginning transformed in the sixteenth century into a Tudor stately home, a castle surrounded by a broad moat, with woods, farmland and a landscaped park on the far side, and a gatehouse tower guarding the two-arched stone bridge, the islands only point of access and departure."


From The Music Room written by William Fiennes (who grew up in Broughton Castle) 




The core of the house was built in 1306 and the gatehouse in the early fifteenth century, but most of what you see today dates from the 1550's. The main part of the house was a center of opposition to Charles I during the English Civil War.  It was besieged and damaged after the Battle of Edgehill in 1642.  



Broughton Castle is home to the 21st Lord and Lady Saye & Sele, whose family name is Fiennes. The ownership of the Castle has remained in the same family since 1447.  




Sir Thomas inherited Broughton Castle from his great uncle William of Wykeham, the founder of New College in Oxford and Winchester College in Winchester.  William Wykeham bought Broughton Castle in 1377. Sir Thomas inherited it in 1447.  Their descendants still live in the Castle nearly 700 years later!



This is a genealogy of the decedents of William of Wykeham and the owners of Broughton Castle since the 14th Century. It hangs in the great hall.  The family name of the owners changed to Fiennes (through marriage) in 1447. The British actors Ralph and Joseph Fiennes are distant cousins to the current owners.  (It was used in the film Shakespeare in Love in 1998 staring Joseph Fiennes as young Shakespeare!)



If Broughton castle looks familiar, that is because it has been used in dozens of movies and TV shows. Above is a list of the movies and TV productions filmed here since 1960.  The one that I recognized the castle from was Wolf Hall, filmed in 2014.  



One of the many things that impressed me with this home are the views from the every window. Every room that I toured, the windows all have beautiful views in every direction. Since the castle is still the private residence of the current Lord and Lady Saye & Sele, only part of the house is available to tour. It is also only open to the public on Wednesday and Sunday 2-5pm.






Through the centuries, various kings and queens of England have been guests at the castle.  The wall paper in this room and the next is 18th century hand painted wall paper from China.  It is stunning.






These documents are the original title to the ownership of the castle.  They date back to 1377.





I love this collection of baby shoes from the various generations and centuries of castle owners.



Stunning views from every window. 




The castle is surrounded by a man made mote.  It helped protect the castle from siege in 1642 during the English Civil War. 






While the gardens are not as large as most castles, they are simply stunning. Two hundred years ago 14 gardeners where employed to maintain the one and a half acre garden. Today only one gardener manages the garden and does so brilliantly. It's is a beautiful English garden.






Behind the gatehouse is the church where the owners of the castle are buried. Here lies William and Mary Wykeham, the first Lord and Lady of Saye & Sele.




This is the tomb of Sir John de Broughton, the builder of the church (1315).  It was restore to it's original medieval colors in the 19th century.  



On the top floor of the castle you'll find a room where there are canon balls that were fired upon the castle in the 1600's. It was also in this room where Sir William and other Parliamentarians made plans to oppose the autocratic rule of King Charles I.  After the English Civil War, William Fiennes (1582-1662) arranged for a group noblemen to travel to the New World, America, where they founded Saybrook (Connecticut).

There is so much history in the walls and grounds of this spectacular house. The castle has been lovingly maintained and restored through the centuries. It is no wonder it is sought after as a movie set.  It looks like a fairytale castle and is well worth a visit.


For more information:  

http://www.broughtoncastle.com/  

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Broughton_Castle

http://www.experienceoxfordshire.org/venue/broughton-castle/


P.S. I've  just finished the book The Music Room, written by William Fiennes. It's a wonderful description of his childhood growing up in Broughton Castle, and coming to understand his older brother who had severe epilepsy. It's beautifully written and a joy to read.