Views from the Tower

I discovered another treasure in Oxford a few weeks ago -- The Tower of the University Church of St. Mary. The tower commands some of the finest views of Oxford's famous skyline. It is worth the climb of 127 steps to make it to the top to enjoy fine uninterrupted views in all directions across Oxford and the surrounding countryside.  It is now on my list of "must see" for visitors. 

One of the thousands of gargoyles that look out over Oxford

The Radcliffe Camera

Looking east down High Street

All Souls College

The Chapel at Merton College

Christ Church and the Old Tom Tower

Brasenose College

Brasenose College with Exeter College Chapel in the background

The hills of West Oxford and the Old Tom Tower

All Souls College with New College in the background

Kelmscott Manor: Heaven on Earth

Of all the grand manor homes I have seen so far in Great Britain,  Kelmscott Manor is my favorite.  It was the home of William Morris, poet, craftsman and socialist, from 1871 until his death in 1896.

Originally called Lower Farm, the house was built around 1600 for Thomas Turner and belonged to the Turners until 1869.  It was then bought by Charles Hobbs who, in 1871, rented it to William Morris and Pre-Raphaelite artist Dante Gabriel Rossetti.  It was, in Morris' words, "as heaven on earth" and became a source of inspiration and pleasure for the rest of his life.

 What I love about Kelmscott is it's simplicity and fine craftsmanship.  It is not a fancy or grand home-- it is uncomplicated and beautifully designed and crafted with simple pleasures like many windows that let in natural light, welcoming fireplaces, a wide open attic that is any child's fantasy play space, and of course, filled with the stunning designs of William Morris and his family. I'm sorry I was not allowed to take photos of the inside of the house.  It is simply beautiful and beautifully simple!

From the Kelmscott website: "Morris loved the house as a work of true craftsmanship, totally unspoilt and unaltered, and in harmony with the village and the surrounding countryside. He considered it so natural in its setting as to be almost organic, it looked to him as if it had "grown up out of the soil"; and with "quaint garrets amongst great timbers of the roof where of old times the tillers and herdsmen slept". Its beautiful gardens, with barns, dovecote, a meadow and stream, provided a constant source of inspiration"

The village of Kelmscott is also a delightful. Not far down the lane from the Morris home are two cottages (semi-detached) designed by Philip Webb (commissioned by William's widow, Jane) in 1902.

Kelmscott is in fact the only true Thames-side village in West Oxfordshire. There is no through route through the village, which makes it a very quiet village. It is a gem of a English country village.

On the side of one of the cottages in the town, overlooking the road, is the famous carved stone plaque designed by George Jack, depicting Morris under a tree in the meadow.

William Morris, his wife Jane and children Jenny and May are buried in the grounds of St George's church, Kelmscott. After visiting Kelmscott, I am an even greater fan of William Morris and his contribution to the Arts and Crafts movement.

Have nothing in your house that you do not know to be useful,
or believe to be beautiful.William Morris 

'For the Bed at Kelmscott'
by William Morris

The wind's on the wold
And the night is a-cold,
And Thames runs chill
Twixt mead and hill,
But kind and dear
Is the old house here,
And my heart is warm
Midst winter's harm.
Rest then and rest,
And think of the best


Twixt summer and spring
When all birds sing 

In the town of the tree,
As ye lie in me
And scarce dare move
Lest earth and its love
Should fade away
Ere the full of the day.
I am old and have seen
Many things that have been,
Both grief and peace,
And wane and increase.


No tale I tell
Of ill or well,
But this I say,
Night treadeth on day,
And for worst and best
Right good is rest.

The true secret of happiness lies in taking a genuine interest in all the details of daily life.   ~ William Morris 

It took me years to understand that words are often as important as experience, because words make experience last.  ~ William Morris 

If you want a golden rule that will fit everything, this is it: Have nothing in your houses that you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful.  ~ William Morris

“...I do not want art for a few; any more than education for a few; or freedom for a few... ”  ~ William Morris

With the arrogance of youth, I determined to do no less than to transform the world with Beauty. If I have succeeded in some small way, if only in one small corner of the world, amongst the men and women I love, then I shall count myself blessed, and blessed, and blessed, and the work goes on.” 

~ William Morris, The Well At The World's End: Volume I

“We are only the trustees for those who come after us.” 

~ William Morris, William Morris by Himself: Designs and Writings

Stowe: breathtakingly beautiful landscape gardens

I love the National Trust properties. They never disappoint. Stowe Garden's and Manor house in Buckingham is no exception. There are over 250 acres of stunning, informal landscape with over 40 historic temples and monuments, each with their own story. It is about an hour northeast of Oxford and full of fascinating history. Well worth a visit!

• Peter Temple, a sheep farmer, signed the first lease for Stowe in 1571. 

• Stowe was owned by the same family for over 350 years. 

• The family hired the most talented architects and garden designers of the age, together with a small army of staff, to ensure that they remained at the forefront of gardening fashion.

• In its late 18th-century heyday, Stowe was the most magnificent landscape garden in Britain. Indeed, it rivaled the grandest royal gardens of continental Europe. The Temple family, who owned Stowe, spent a fortune creating and extending the garden to further their political ambitions.

• Stowe reached its social peak in 1822 when Richard Temple was created 1st Duke of Buckingham. In 1845 the family laid on an extravagant welcome for Queen Victoria. But three years later the second Duke was bankrupt.

• 'Capability' Brown was married here and lived in one of the Boycott Pavilions

• Stowe was 'Capability' Brown's first major commission

• Catherine the Great of Russia loved the gardens and she copied many ideas for her gardens near St.  Petersburg

• The family claimed Lady Godiva as one of their ancestors

• The family was once richer than the king

• The second Duke was a fraudster who took his family and Stowe to the brink of financial ruin. In 1847 bailiffs seized his assets and he fled abroad.

• His son took over, selling most of the contents of Stowe, but this did little to re-coup the Duke's £1 million debt. The scandal rocked the English aristocracy and appalled the public. The future of Stowe was in grave doubt.

• The son's efforts to secure Stowe’s future were undermined when he died in 1889, with no male heir. His daughter used Stowe rarely. When her son died in the First World War, Stowe was sold.

The Palladian Bridge, one of only three in the country,  and Stowe's is the only one with no steps so that carriages can cross it, not that this happens very often in the 21st century! 

Stowe was rescued in 1922, when it was turned into a school. Clough Williams-Ellis, creator of Portmeirion, was appointed to recreate the Stowe estate as Stowe School.